Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide: Ancient Faith & Mountain Landscapes

Twenty million Kurds living across Syria, Iraq, Iran, and Turkey are often described as the largest ethnic group in the world without an independent state. I had known this statistic for years. What I did not know until I arrived in Iraqi Kurdistan was what it felt like to be welcomed into their mountains.

Iraqi Kurdistan is an autonomous region in the northeast of Iraq. Erbil, the regional capital, with its UNESCO-listed citadel at the center, is a modern, sprawling city. It has international hotels, a functioning airport, and a visible security presence that keeps the city orderly. It is not the Iraq of news headlines.

This was my first visit to Iraq, part of a wider Middle East journey in December 2025. I spent three days in and outside Erbil, and what I found there was deeply layered history, landscapes that explain every Kurdish proverb about mountains, and people who treated a stranger with a dignity and hospitality I was not quite prepared for.

“The Kurds have no friends but the mountains.” That old saying took on new meaning when I stood at Rawanduz Canyon and saw what those mountains actually look like.

Contents

Four Ancient Monuments, Four Different Faiths
The Mountains of Rawanduz and Bekhal
Erbil Citadel
On Checkpoints, Kindness, and the Refusal to Take Money
Eating Plant-Based in Iraqi Kurdistan
Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary: What to See in 3 Days
Practical Information for Visiting Iraqi Kurdistan
Frequently Asked Questions
People of Iraqi Kurdistan
A Final Thought

Four Ancient Monuments, Four Different Faiths

What moved me most during this trip was something I had not planned for. In the space of a single day of traveling, I visited four ancient religious monuments from four entirely different faiths. Not one of them is Islamic. All of them predate Islam. And all of them are today cherished by the Kurdish people as part of their own heritage. That is a story the world does not hear often enough.

Rabban Hormizd Monastery, Alqosh

The switchback road leading up to Rabban Hormizd Monastery above Alqosh with the Nineveh Plains visible below, northern Iraq — The road up to Rabban Hormizd. The plain below is the Nineveh Plain, ancient Assyrian heartland.

The road to Alqosh runs north of Mosul across the Nineveh Plains. The town itself is quiet and Chaldean, with stone lanes and the smell of old mountain air. The Rabban Hormizd Monastery, carved into the mountainside just above it, was founded around 640 AD by a monk of the Church of the East named Hormizd, who had come here from what is now western Iran.

The lower cave cells carved into the cliff face at Rabban Hormizd Monastery near Alqosh, northern Iraq — The cave cells of Rabban Hormizd, Alqosh. Monks carved their living quarters directly from the rock.

It is one of the great Chaldean Catholic sites of the entire region. Patriarchs are buried in a corridor that leads to the original cell where Hormizd himself once lived. For centuries this monastery held one of the most important collections of Syriac manuscripts in existence, many of which were looted or destroyed during regional conflicts. What survived is a testament to persistence as much as faith.

Standing inside the carved rock chambers, looking out over the Nineveh Plains below, I thought about the sheer continuity of this place. Sumerians, Assyrians, Persians, and now the Chaldean Christian communities of northern Iraq. Fourteen centuries of prayer in the same stone walls.

Rabban Hormizd Monastery dramatically set into the cliff face at sunset near Alqosh, northern Iraq — Rabban Hormizd Monastery at sunset, Alqosh. Founded in 640 AD, carved into the mountain itself.

Tomb of the Prophet Nahum, Alqosh

Also in Alqosh is the Tomb of the Prophet Nahum, a site associated with Jewish tradition and believed by some scholars to date back nearly three millennia. Nahum was one of the minor prophets of the Hebrew Bible, and this small shrine has been a site of Jewish pilgrimage for centuries. The Jewish community of Alqosh has almost entirely dispersed over the past hundred years, but the tomb remains, cared for and visited, a quiet remnant of what was once a living congregation.

Rooftop view of the Tomb of Prophet Nahum complex in Alqosh with domed shrine, Christian crosses on nearby churches, and the vast Nineveh Plains stretching to the horizon, northern Iraq — The Tomb of Prophet Nahum in Alqosh, with the Nineveh Plains spreading to the horizon. The Jewish shrine sits alongside active Christian churches, a reminder of how many faiths have called this land home.

There is something quietly remarkable about finding a Jewish shrine in the Christian town of Alqosh, in the autonomous region of a Muslim-majority country, with Kurdish families nearby who consider it as much a part of their cultural landscape as anything else.

Mar Mattai Monastery

Mar Mattai Monastery from the approach road. Founded in 363 AD, it has been here longer than Islam.

The facade of Mar Mattai Monastery with a prominent cross against a deep blue sky, northern Iraq

The cross above Mar Mattai. Syriac Orthodox Christians have prayed here for 1,600 years.

The arcaded inner courtyard of Mar Mattai Monastery with stone arches and tiled floors, northern Iraq

The courtyard of Mar Mattai. The arches have been rebuilt and restored, but the site is continuous.

The 4th-century Mar Mattai Monastery is a Syriac Orthodox stronghold on a mountainside overlooking the Nineveh Plains. It was built around 363 AD and has been in continuous use for over 1,600 years. The monastery holds a significant collection of ancient manuscripts and has sweeping views across the plains toward Mosul.

Its monks have maintained the library and liturgical tradition through some of the most turbulent centuries in the region’s history. There is something almost otherworldly about standing in a 4th-century Syriac church and realizing the world outside has changed beyond all recognition several times over, while the liturgy inside has continued largely unbroken.

Nirmal standing in the tiled courtyard of Mar Mattai Monastery with arched colonnades and a church cross visible behind him, northern Iraq — In the courtyard of Mar Mattai Monastery. The cross has been here since the fourth century.

The Yazidi Valley of Lalish

Stone-vaulted sanctuary corridor at the Lalish Yazidi temple hung with colourful silk drapes in green, red, purple and yellow over sacred shrines, Iraqi Kurdistan — Inside the Lalish sanctuary. The colored drapes mark the sacred niches. Each color holds meaning in Yazidi tradition.

The Yazidis are among the oldest and most persecuted religious communities in the world. Their faith is pre-Islamic, drawing on ancient Mesopotamian traditions and incorporating elements of Zoroastrianism, Mithraism, and early Christianity, blended into something entirely its own. In recent years they became tragically known to the outside world because of the violence inflicted on them during the ISIS period.

And yet, in the sacred valley of Lalish, in the mountains northwest of Erbil, the tradition continues. Pilgrims still arrive barefoot. The conical white towers of the shrines still catch the light. The smell of sesame oil from the lamps fills the air around the temple entrance.

Visitors are asked to remove their shoes at the entrance to the valley, and to step over the threshold stones rather than on them. I followed both instructions without hesitation. There are places where respect is not an effort; it is simply what the moment calls for.

Lalish is one of those places that reminds you what it means to be in a living tradition. Not a museum. Not a ruin. A valley where people still come home to pray.

Wide view of the Lalish Yazidi temple complex with conical shrines rising above stone walls and the wooded mountain valley behind, Iraqi Kurdistan

Lalish from the hillside above. The valley is sacred in its entirety — every tree, spring and stone.

Stone-vaulted tunnel of the sacred oil storage chamber beneath the Lalish temple, lined with rows of ancient blackened clay pots used for holy olive oil, Iraqi Kurdistan

The oil chamber beneath the Lalish temple. Every pot holds olive oil for the sacred lamps above.

Ancient clay oil pots stacked against a stone wall covered in generations of handprints left by Yazidi pilgrims at the Lalish temple, Iraqi Kurdistan

Oil pots and pilgrims' handprints at Lalish. Yazidis press their hands to the walls as they enter. The marks accumulate over generations.

An ancient gnarled fig tree in the courtyard of the Lalish Yazidi temple complex, Iraqi Kurdistan

The ancient fig tree at Lalish. Yazidis believe certain trees in the valley are sacred.

A Yazidi guardian at Lalish. The eternal flame is tended continuously. It must never go out.

A Yazidi woman at Lalish. Women in white or bright colours are a common sight on pilgrimage days.

Nirmal walking through the stone-vaulted underground oil chamber at the Lalish Yazidi temple, lined with rows of sacred clay pots, Iraqi Kurdistan

Inside the Lalish oil chamber. You enter barefoot — the same rule that applies throughout the entire valley.

Looking into the entrance of the underground Lalish oil chamber, with blackened clay oil pots lining the stone shelves on both sides, Iraqi Kurdistan

The entrance to the underground oil chamber at Lalish. The darkness and the pots have been here for centuries.

Close-up of ancient blackened clay oil pots stacked on stone shelves in the sacred underground chamber at the Lalish Yazidi temple, Iraqi Kurdistan

The oil pots of Lalish up close. Blackened by centuries of use, each one still holds its purpose.

Detail of ancient clay oil pots against a stone wall densely covered with generations of handprints at the Lalish Yazidi temple, Iraqi Kurdistan

Handprints and oil pots at Lalish. Every print was left by a pilgrim dipping their hand in holy oil.

The distinctive conical shrines of the Lalish Yazidi temple rising above the valley walls in the sacred mountain valley, Iraqi Kurdistan

The conical shrines of Lalish. The fluted form is unique to Yazidi sacred architecture.

The Mountains of Rawanduz and Bekhal

Nirmal standing at the rim of Rawanduz Canyon overlooking the deep gorge and river below, Iraqi Kurdistan — At the canyon rim above Rawanduz. The drop is several hundred metres.

I had been told the drive into the Rawanduz and Bekhal mountain area would be beautiful. Beautiful did not cover it.

Wide aerial view of Rawanduz Canyon with a turquoise river winding between towering limestone cliffs and terraced hillsides, Iraqi Kurdistan

Rawanduz Canyon from the high overlook. The river finds its way through regardless.

Nirmal standing beside the Rawanduz River at the base of the canyon walls, Iraqi Kurdistan

At river level in the Rawanduz Canyon. The walls tower on both sides.

Rawanduz Canyon at dawn. The river has been cutting through this limestone for millennia.

The road winds up through canyons where the walls of red and ochre limestone close around you, then open suddenly onto views that seem to belong to a different scale of geography entirely. The Rawanduz Canyon runs for kilometers, with a river far below and cliffs rising on both sides. You understand, standing here, why a people would define themselves by their mountains.

Bekhal waterfall, near the town of Soran, is a local landmark and a place of genuine natural beauty. In December, the crowds were thin, the light was low and golden, and the sound of water was the only competition.

Nirmal taking a selfie at Bekhal Waterfall near Rawanduz with the waterfall cascading behind him, Iraqi Kurdistan — At Bekhal Waterfall near Rawanduz. The falls stay strong even in December.

Erbil Citadel

The Erbil Citadel sits at the center of the city, a mound rising 32 meters above the surrounding streets, and it has been continuously inhabited for at least 6,000 years. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. The outer walls, which you can walk along in the evenings, look out over a city that is simultaneously ancient and thoroughly modern.

I went twice: once in the evening on arrival, when the light on the stone was warm and the bazaar below was busy, and once in the morning before the day trips began. Both times it had that quality that the oldest places sometimes have, where the present feels thin and the past feels very close.

The vaulted brick arcade of the Qaysari Bazaar in Erbil with Kurdish flags hanging from the ceiling and spice and food stalls lining both sides, Iraqi Kurdistan

The Qaysari Bazaar beneath the Erbil Citadel. The brick vaults are centuries old; the Kurdish flags are a daily assertion of identity.

Aerial view of the Erbil Citadel square with fountains and pedestrian plaza below the ancient mound walls, Iraqi Kurdistan

The plaza below the Erbil Citadel. The mound it sits on rises 32 metres above the city.

Street-level view of the Erbil Citadel ancient mound and perimeter wall with the old city below, Iraqi Kurdistan

The Erbil Citadel at street level. The inhabited mound has been continuously occupied for at least 6,000 years.

Close-up of ancient geometric blue and brick tilework decoration on a wall inside the Erbil Citadel, Iraqi Kurdistan

Tilework detail inside the Erbil Citadel. The decorative language is unmistakably Mesopotamian.

Erbil city skyline glowing orange at sunset with minarets and modern buildings visible, Iraqi Kurdistan

Erbil at sunset. The city of four million feels modern but the history beneath it is 6,000 years deep.

A hand holding a cup of fresh pomegranate juice in front of the ancient Erbil Citadel walls on a sunny day, Iraqi Kurdistan

Fresh pomegranate juice in front of the Erbil Citadel. The vendors outside the citadel press them on the spot — one of the easiest plant-based snacks you'll find anywhere.

Jalil Khayat Mosque

The Jalil Khayat Mosque sits a short distance from the citadel and is hard to miss. The twin minarets and teal dome are visible from much of central Erbil. It was completed in 2007 and named after a prominent Kurdish businessman who funded its construction. By the standards of the region’s ancient sites, it is recent, but the scale is impressive, and the interior, with its chandelier-lit dome and deep red carpeting, has a presence that invites you to slow down regardless of your faith

I arrived in the late afternoon when the light on the tilework was at its best. A few worshippers were inside. Nobody asked me to leave.

The facade of Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil showing blue tilework and twin minarets against the sky, Iraqi Kurdistan — Jalil Khayat Mosque, Erbil. The blue tile facade is visible from across the citadel square.

The ornate interior of Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil with painted dome, chandeliers and red prayer carpet, Iraqi Kurdistan — The interior of Jalil Khayat Mosque, Erbil. The dome is covered entirely in painted tilework and calligraphy.

Detail of the painted dome interior of Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil showing Arabic calligraphy medallions, stained glass windows and geometric tilework, Iraqi Kurdistan — Dome detail, Jalil Khayat Mosque, Erbil. Arabic calligraphy fills every arch and panel.

On Checkpoints, Kindness, and the Refusal to Take Money

Iraqi Kurdistan involves checkpoints. Traveling between cities, entering certain sites, moving through rural areas: you stop, you show your passport, you explain briefly where you are going. I passed through more checkpoints in three days here than in most countries over several weeks.

Not once did I feel unsafe, unwelcome, or disrespected. The Peshmerga soldiers at those checkpoints were professional, calm, and often warm. Several times, after checking my documents, a soldier would nod at my camera and ask where I was from, genuinely curious. In rural areas, more than once, a street vendor refused to take money for what I had bought or accepted, insisting with a hand over their heart that it was their honor to welcome a guest. I have traveled to 128 countries. That kind of hospitality is not universal.

I found myself picking up Kurdish words as I moved around. Sorani Kurdish, the dialect of the region, shares enough with Farsi, Hindi, and Urdu that I kept recognizing sounds I knew: taqreeban (approximately), hazaar (thousand), mushkil (problem), dakhal (inside), ajnabee (foreigner). Languages carry migrations and connections inside them. Sorani Kurdish carries centuries of contact with the Persian world, the Arabic world, and the older Mesopotamian world beneath both.

Nirmal taking a selfie with a local man inside a famous historic tea house in Erbil with every wall and ceiling covered in framed photographs and portraits, Iraqi Kurdistan — Inside the most photographed tea house in Erbil. Every surface is covered in portraits and clippings going back decades.

Eating Plant-Based in Iraqi Kurdistan

I follow a plant-based diet and have maintained it across 128 countries, including places that presented real logistical challenges. Iraqi Kurdistan was not among the difficult ones. The local cuisine has enough plant-based foundations that, with a little communication, I ate well.

Kurdish food is built around flatbreads, rice, legumes, fresh herbs, and grilled vegetables. Dolma, the stuffed grape leaves or vegetables with rice and spices, are often naturally plant-based. Hummus, various bean and lentil preparations, fresh cucumber and tomato salads, pickled vegetables, and the excellent local breads were available in almost every restaurant. In Erbil, with its international hotels and larger restaurant scene, finding plant-based meals was straightforward.

A Kurdish vendor selling pomegranates from a roadside stall on the Nineveh Plains, northern Iraq — A pomegranate vendor on the Nineveh Plains road. Seasonal fruit sold from the back of a pickup.

In more rural areas, the approach was the same one I use everywhere: simple, direct communication. “Be-gosht” means without meat in Kurdish (similar to the Farsi bi-gosht), and combining that with gestures toward the vegetable and legume dishes on display worked every time.

Plant-Based Eating in Iraqi Kurdistan: Practical Tips
Be-gosht	Without meat. Understood across the region.
Be-labaniyat	Without dairy, though this is harder to communicate consistently.
Flatbreads	Naan and samoon are typically dairy-free.
Reliable staples	Dolma, hummus, mujaddara (lentils and rice), tabbouleh.
In Erbil	International and hotel restaurants can accommodate specific requests.
Snacks	The bazaar around the citadel has fresh fruit stalls.
Water	Bottled water widely available and recommended; tap water not for drinking.

A small postscript: I came across an old 25-dinar Iraqi note with Saddam Hussein’s portrait on it, the kind that used to be worth around $75 before sanctions and the fall of the regime. I paid about 65 cents for it. There is something in that exchange that captures how dramatically the world can shift within a single generation.

Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary: What to See in 3 Days

This visit was part of a wider Middle East trip in December 2025, entering from Doha via a direct flight to Erbil. Three days is enough to cover the main sites around Erbil and make day trips into the mountains and the Nineveh Plains.

Day	Activity
Day 1	Arrive Erbil via direct flight from Doha (Qatar Airways, ~2 hrs). Check in to Divan Erbil Hotel, Gulan Street. Evening walk to the Erbil Citadel outer walls and the bazaar below. Dinner near the citadel.
Day 2	Full day: Nineveh Plains and Alqosh. Morning drive to Alqosh (~1.5 hrs). Visit Rabban Hormizd Monastery (carved mountainside, ~640 AD). Tomb of the Prophet Nahum in Alqosh town. En route, visit Mar Mattai Monastery (4th century, Syriac Orthodox). Return to Erbil via different route. Evening at the modern Erbil promenade.
Day 3	Full day: Lalish and the mountains. Morning: Sacred Yazidi valley of Lalish (remove shoes at entrance, step over door thresholds). Afternoon: Drive into the Rawanduz-Bekhal mountains. Rawanduz Canyon scenic drive. Bekhal waterfall near Soran. Return to Erbil for flight departure the following morning.

Practical Information for Visiting Iraqi Kurdistan

Visa

As of 2025, most nationalities can apply for an e-visa to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq through the Kurdistan Regional Government’s official portal at visit.gov.krd before traveling. The KRI e-visa costs $75 USD, is valid for 30 days from entry, and is issued within a few days of application. Print the visa confirmation in color and present it at Erbil International Airport immigration.

Note: Since March 2025, Iraq’s federal visa-on-arrival program has been suspended for most nationalities. If you plan to visit both Kurdistan and other parts of Iraq (Baghdad, Basra, Mosul), you will need a separate Iraqi federal e-visa. The two visa systems are distinct. Check current requirements before traveling as policies have been changing.

Be sure too check the current rules, processing times, and current cost on the official site.

Getting There

Erbil International Airport (IATA: EBL) has direct connections to major Middle East hubs: Doha (Qatar Airways, ~2 hours), Dubai (FlyDubai and Air Arabia), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines and Pegasus), and several others. There are no direct flights from the US or Europe at time of writing, but one-stop connections are straightforward via the Gulf hubs.

Getting Around

A hired car with a local driver is the most practical way to cover the day trips described above. The roads are in good condition between Erbil and the major sites. The drive to Alqosh is about 75 km and takes roughly 1.5 hours. The mountain routes toward Rawanduz require a reliable vehicle but are not technical driving. Your hotel can arrange a driver, or ask locally in Erbil.

Currency and ATMs

The currency is the Iraqi dinar (IQD). In Erbil, ATMs are available in the city center and at international hotels. In smaller towns and rural areas, ATMs can be scarce. Carry cash in IQD when heading outside Erbil. USD is also accepted in many tourist-facing businesses. Credit cards work at major hotels and some larger restaurants but not reliably elsewhere.

Safety

The Kurdistan Region has a safety profile that differs substantially from the rest of Iraq. Erbil is protected by the Peshmerga, and has maintained stability through periods of turmoil. In 2025, the World Travel Index ranked Erbil in the upper tier of global cities for safety with a score of 81 out of 100. The checkpoints throughout the region are standard procedure, are staffed professionally, and are not cause for concern with valid documents and a clear purpose of travel.

Best Time to Visit

Spring, from March through late April, is generally considered the best time for the mountains and countryside, when the region is green and the temperatures mild. Summers are very hot in Erbil (can exceed 40 degrees Celsius) though the mountain areas are cooler. December, when I visited, offered crisp winter light, uncrowded sites, and the golden tones of the canyon walls that a greener season would look quite different.

Accommodation

Erbil has a range of accommodation from international business hotels to smaller local guesthouses. The Divan Erbil on Gulan Street is a reliable mid-to-upscale option well located for the citadel and city center.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Iraqi Kurdistan safe to visit?

Iraqi Kurdistan has a safety profile that differs substantially from the rest of Iraq. Erbil scored 81 out of 100 on the World Travel Index in 2025. The region is administered separately from federal Iraq and protected by the Peshmerga. Checkpoints are routine and professional. Most travelers who visit report feeling safer than they expected.

Do I need a visa to visit Iraqi Kurdistan?

Most nationalities can apply for a Kurdistan Region e-visa through visit.gov.krd. The fee is $75 USD, the visa is valid for 30 days, and processing takes a few days. Since March 2025, Iraq’s federal visa-on-arrival has been suspended for most nationalities, so apply online before you travel. If you plan to visit both Kurdistan and the rest of Iraq, note that the two visa systems are separate. Be sure to check the current fees and process on the official site.

How do I get to Erbil?

Erbil International Airport (EBL) has direct flights from Doha (Qatar Airways), Dubai (FlyDubai, Air Arabia), and Istanbul (Turkish Airlines, Pegasus). There are no direct flights from the US or Europe at time of writing, but one-stop connections via Gulf hubs are straightforward.

What is the best time to visit Iraqi Kurdistan?

Spring (March to late April) is widely considered the best season, with mild temperatures and green mountain landscapes. Summer temperatures in Erbil can exceed 40 degrees Celsius, though the mountains are cooler. Winter visits (December to February) offer uncrowded sites, clear light, and striking canyon colours, which is when this trip was made.

Can you eat plant-based or vegan in Iraqi Kurdistan?

Yes, more easily than you might expect. Kurdish cuisine is built around flatbreads, legumes, rice, fresh herbs, and grilled vegetables. Dolma, hummus, mujaddara, and tabbouleh are reliable plant-based options available almost everywhere. The key phrase is “be-gosht” (without meat). In Erbil, international restaurants can accommodate more specific requests.

What is the Yazidi site at Lalish?

Lalish is the holiest site in the Yazidi faith, a sacred valley northwest of Erbil containing ancient shrines with distinctive conical white towers. Visitors are asked to remove their shoes at the valley entrance and to step over, not on, the threshold stones. The Yazidis are one of the world’s oldest religious communities, with a pre-Islamic faith drawing on ancient Mesopotamian, Zoroastrian, and early Christian traditions.

People of Iraqi Kurdistan

Portrait of a young Kurdish girl with braided hair sitting against golden autumn bokeh at Lalish, Iraqi Kurdistan

A girl at Lalish in December. The autumn colours in the valley lasted well into winter.

Portrait of a Kurdish boy in a dinosaur-print vest jacket against golden autumn leaves at Lalish, Iraqi Kurdistan

A boy at Lalish in the autumn light. He watched us with great seriousness.

Portrait of a Yazidi woman in a blue headscarf and teal velvet dress smiling at the Lalish temple complex with mountains behind, Iraqi Kurdistan

A woman at Lalish. She had come from her village two hours away for the day.

Kurdish women in traditional ceremonial green and black dress with elaborate gold coin headdresses and jewellery walking in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

Kurdish women in ceremonial dress in Erbil. The gold coin headdress and belt are traditional bridal or festival attire, worn with unmistakable pride.

A Yazidi woman at Lalish. Women in white or bright colours are a common sight on pilgrimage days.

Portrait of an elderly Kurdish man in traditional striped keffiyeh holding a small glass of tea at a cafe in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

An elder at a cafe near the Erbil Citadel. Tea is the currency of every conversation in Kurdistan.

Portrait of a Kurdish man in traditional black and white keffiyeh headdress at a cafe in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

A man at a cafe in Erbil. The keffiyeh pattern varies by region — this one is distinctly Kurdish.

An elderly Kurdish man in traditional dress with keffiyeh and embroidered sash gesturing in conversation at the Erbil bazaar, Iraqi Kurdistan

A man mid-story in the bazaar. The embroidered sash is a traditional Kurdish belt, worn by men for generations.

A Yazidi guardian at Lalish. The eternal flame is tended continuously. It must never go out.

Nirmal with a Yazidi elder in front of the conical shrines at the Lalish temple complex, Iraqi Kurdistan

With a Yazidi elder at Lalish. He had lived his entire life in the valley.

Nirmal and Kurdish guides sharing lunch at a restaurant in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

Lunch with our guides in Erbil. Hospitality here is not optional — it is an obligation.

Kurdish men selling prayer beads and jewellery at a stall in the Erbil Citadel bazaar, Iraqi Kurdistan

Prayer bead vendors in the Erbil Citadel bazaar. Misbaha beads are sold in every colour and material.

Kurdish men drinking tea in the historic Erbil Citadel bazaar surrounded by framed photographs on the walls, Iraqi Kurdistan

Tea time in the citadel bazaar, Erbil. The framed photos behind them are a history of Kurdish culture.

Nirmal and his Kurdish guide sharing tea at a historic tea house in the Erbil Citadel bazaar, walls and ceiling covered in framed photographs and Kurdish portraits, Iraqi Kurdistan

Tea with our guide at one of the oldest tea houses in the Erbil Citadel bazaar. The walls are a museum of Kurdish history.

A Final Thought

I left Erbil on the morning of Day 4 with a 25-dinar Saddam-era banknote in my pocket, several memory cards full of images, and the specific feeling that comes from having visited a warm and welcoming place.

Iraqi Kurdistan is a place that has protected its ancient monuments. It is a place where a Jewish tomb and a Yazidi temple and a Chaldean mountain monastery and a Syriac Orthodox fortress can all exist within a few hours of each other, and all be considered, by the Kurdish people living among them, as part of a shared heritage. Twenty million people without a state. But with these mountains, and with this history, and with this hospitality, they are not without a home.

Traveling to Iraqi Kurdistan: Ancient Faith, Mountain Landscapes, and the Warmth of a People Who Call These Mountains Home