Atago Jinja, a special Shrine in Tokyo
Hidden high above one of Tokyo’s most upscale business districts, Atago Jinja isn’t just a shrine—it’s a place of peace, inspiration, and legends of success. Known for its iconic “Steps of Success,” this historic site has attracted samurais, business leaders, and hopeful visitors for centuries. Whether you seek career growth, a fresh start, or a deeper connection to Japan’s spiritual heritage, Atago Jinja offers a unique blend of history, culture, and mystical charm. In this post, we will explore its fascinating legends, powerful rituals, and why this hidden gem deserves a spot on your Tokyo itinerary.
We discovered Atago shrine almost by accident, on our first day in Tokyo back in September 2024. Being there felt magical – serene, grounding and yet unreal. The place immediately touched our hearts in ways I can’t begin to explain. Maybe the gardens, flowing waterfall, pond, koi fish, or maybe the divine energy of the place. It’s hard to point to one thing. This is one of those places that is best experienced. We also heard of miracles, where wishes come true, people get answers to important questions or doors opened seemingly magically where they were stuck for years.
Over the subsequent trips, we learnt about Atago Jinja’s history, charm, and modern day significance. Despite its significance, very little is written about this shrine in English. So I’ll share everything I’ve learned about Atago Jinja to inspire and help you have an informed visit.
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History and Legends of Atago Jinja
I found two main legends about Atago Jinja – one of its origin and one of continued charm.
Origin Story of Atago Jinja
According to the first legend, Atago Jinja was established in the year Keicho 8 (1603) by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the 1st shogun of the Edo period. He originally ordered to build a shrine here to protect the local community from fire. So the main Shinto god worshipped in this shrine is the fire god – Homusubi no Mikoto.
Atago-Yama sits at 26 meters above sea level, the highest natural point in all of Tokyo’s 23 wards. All through history, the shrine was famous for its commanding views of Tokyo and areas all around it. With time, other higher points have been built. In recent years the shining glass office and residential buildings, towering over the shrine. However, Atago shrine continues to command its position as spiritual center of energy that draws regular people, business leaders, the rich, and the famous seeking success in life’s endeavors.
Steps of Success
Atago Jinja is known for the ’Steps of Success’ leading up to the shrine from the main road (Prefectural Route 301). These 86 stone steps are high and steep. They are not easy to walk up, and would be much harder to ride up on horse back.
Legend has it that the third shogun of the Edo period, Tokugawa Iemitsu, challenged a retainer from the Marugame domain to bring plum blossoms to Atago Shrine. A brave junior samurai by the name of Magaki Heikurou dared to ride his horse up the steep uneven steps, and delivered a plum gift to his lord. The Shogun was impressed, and the samurai was hailed as a great rider of Japan. Over time the samurai saw great success in his career. Now for centuries, people have climbed the Steps of Success, believing that each step represents a milestone in their personal or professional journey.
Hence these steps have become famous as “Shusse no Ishidan” in Japan, which translates to “the stone steps to success”.
Atago Jinja’s Modern Relevance
To a first-time visitor, the shrine may seem like a local place of worship squeezed between the glitzy Mori Towers, perhaps forgotten in the tides of time. But nothing is far from the truth. It’s true that Atago Jinja has seen its share of destruction but has also been rebuilt over the centuries. The current version is from the 1958 redevelopment. The most recent renovations were done around 2023.
As Mount Atago area was redeveloped for modern Tokyo with mixed living high-rises of business, hotels, residences, and restaurants, the area was built as vertical gardens to keep the mountain forest charm. Much emphasis was placed on preserving the Atago forests, NHK Museum of Broadcasting, and important monuments like Atago Shrine, Seisho-ji temple, Eikanin temple, Koshoin temple, and many others. For example, you can still eat at Diago, the 75-year-old Michelin-star Shojin Ryori restaurant that was carefully moved from Seisho-ji temple into Atago Hills tower. Now run by the 4th generation, still preserving the heritage of vegan Buddhist monk kitchen. You will be blown by the simplicity, zen serenity, depths of flavors, and care, in this authentically traditional Japanese style restaurant. In other places historic sites may have been decimated, but in true Japanese style, Atago Jinja and its neighbors are being preserved carefully. They also continue to thrive and stay relevant in modern times.
Celebrations at Atago Jinja
As all Shinto shrines, Atago Jinja hosts many festivals and events that bring followers togethers. Here area few notable celebrations –
Year-end and New Year celebrations
Dates: 31st Dec to 7th Jan
As is customary across Japan, everyone visits their favorite temples and shrines to start off the new year and a new chapter.
Atago Shrine is also busy at all hours in January and early February. The shrine and the store store have long lines. As one would expect in Japan, everything is very orderly, with four parallel lines for worshiping. No unruly crowds and each person gets their time to pray.
Setsubun
Date: Early February – day after the first day of spring in the old calendar (known as Risshun). Its usually Feb 3rd or 2nd.
Setsubun, marks the transition between the seasons and is believed to ward off evil spirits by throwing roasted soybeans (fukumame 福豆 ‘fortune beans‘). Temples and shrines sell pouches of roasted soybeans leading up to the festival and on the day of the festival. On Satsuban people throw the dried soybeans out the front door, or at a masked family member, or at each other in shrines. They eat these yummy beans for fortune in the new year.
As another quirky tradition, kids of all ages eat a giant sushi rolls that day. More about Setsubun on wikipedia.
Atago Shrine Sennichi Mairi and Hozuki Festival
Date: June end
“Sennichi mairi (千日詣り)” literally means 1000-day visit, because visiting the shrine on one of these two days is supposed to bring 1000 days worth of good luck.
“Hozuki/ほおづき” means Chinese lantern plants which used for medicinal purposes in the past. At the festival, visitors can purchase a Shinto purified lantern plant to take home with them. Also, a wreath of kaya grass is placed at the vibrant vermillion torii. Walking through the wreath is believed to ward off evil.
Check more details at Japan Kuru.
Atagoyama
Date: September End
Atagoyama is Atago Shrine’s most important festival. The steps and the entire shrine grounds are decorated with hundreds of electric paper lanterns for weeks.
The main event is a procession where thousands of people participate. Volunteers dressed in festive costumes carry a Mikoshi or Omikoshi (a large portable shrine) up the “Shusse no Ishidan”. Here is an instagram reel from 2024 festival at Atago Jinja.
Drums, violins, and many musical performances are showcased on the stage over the pond. Food tents and food trucks provide local, traditional, and delicious foods. Even Daigo, the Michelin star restaurant hosted a food stall for visitors. The festival is a great way to carry forward traditions. Since the renovations, 2024 saw the largest event with focus on local traditional charm.
The shrine hosts many other annual events that brings together the entire community, visitors, and devotees from afar. People can host private events like weddings too. The friendly staff is always happy to explain.
Gods Enshrined at Atago Jinja
Atago Jinja is located in a spacious hilltop, so it’s open 24×7. The doors of the buildings are closed but visitors can climb the steps, wash, pray and donate any time.
Three small shrines are located in the back between the main shrine and the office. They are behind the metal gates so they are only accessible while the shrine shop/office is open.
Benzaiten-sha’s shrine, waterfall shrine, the plum tree, and the rock are located in the open area.
Here are the shrines at Atago Jinja in Tokyo –
Atago Sama
God of Fire. The god of household safety and business success.
Deity enshrined: Homusubi no Mikoto (the god of fire), also known as Kagutsuchi or Hi-no-Kagutsuchi.
Legend has it that, due to his immense fire power, his mother, the female creator god, Izanami, was fatally burned while giving birth to him. Enraged, his father, Izanagi, cut him into pieces. But lo and behold, his blood and body parts created several new gods.
Atago sama’s most famous shrine is in Kyoto but I find Atago Jinja in Tokyo to be supremely powerful (from personal experience). I hope to visit him in Kyoto next time.
The fire god was enshrined at this highest point in Tokyo for respect, but I think it’s also for the then sweeping views. From here one could get an early warning of smoke, contain the fire, and protect the city from fires.
If you’re wondering – how business success related to the fire god, these old Japanese sayings associated with the god give some clues –
- “hi-wo-ireru” translates to ‘turn on the switch’ or ‘reboot’ in the digital age.
- “hi-no-kuruma” refers to the wheels of carriage catching fire. Translating to modern times, it means to business would be wildly successful.
Likewise, how is household safety related to fire god? The heart of a house is the kitchen, where the fire is kept, so a country where homes are made of wood and paper, fire god an important god and protector. Therefore, if we pray to the fire god, the entire household is blessed with safety.
Taroubou Jinja
Taroubou Jinja will protect your future. This Tengu god will lead your path.
Deity enshrined: Sarutahiko no Mikoto – god of guidance and travel.
Sarutahiko no Mikoto has been revered as Tarobo of Atago mountain (in Kyoto) since ancient times. He is a powerful Tengu, which is a mischievous, supernatural creature often depicted with a long nose and considered a mountain deity. Sarutahiko no Mikoto is believed to have guided the all-important Ninigi no Mikoto (aka Tenson Kōrin), the heavenly grandson of Amaterasu. Ninigi no Mikoto descended from heaven to earth, marking the beginning of the imperial lineage of Japan. As the god’s guide, Sarutahiko no Mikoto is considered the guardian deity of future development, travel, etc.
Fukuju Inari Jinja
God of rice (foods) cultivation and business success.
Inari is the Shinto god of rice and prosperity. Fukuju means “good fortune and longevity” or “happiness and long life”. Fukuju Inari is interpreted as “the lucky Inari”. The worshippers of Inari are blessed with wealth and success.
Deity enshrined: Uga Mitama or Uka no mitama – god associated with food and agriculture, often identified with Inari. “uka” meaning “food” in Japanese. Uka no mitama is considered the “august spirit of food”.
As the guardian deity of food, clothing, shelter, agriculture, industry and commerce, this god is deeply revered by the business people.
Ebisu and Daikoku-sha
Gods of the kitchen. Worshiped for good fortune, agriculture, and business.
Ebisu and Daikoku-sha are two of the Seven Gods of Fortune in Shintoism
- Ebisu is the god of prosperity and good fortune, especially in business. He is dressed as a fisherman and is the patron of restaurants, fisheries, and corporations.
- Daikokuten is the god of wealth and prosperity. He is depicted sitting on top of bales of rice and carrying a golden mallet.
Deity enshrined: Okuninushi no mikoto and Toshiro Shumei. They are worshipped as gods who bestows blessings, goodness, wisdom, etc.
In Japanese mythology, Okuninushi no Mikoto is a central deity considered the “Great Land Master” or “Lord of the Central Land of Reed Plains,” often associated with the earth, creation, medicine, agriculture, relationships, and is known for his role in shaping the Japanese landscape. He is considered one of the most important gods in Shinto belief, often depicted as a compassionate and wise figure with a significant story involving the “White Hare of Inaba.”.
Benzaiten-sha
God of success in extracurricular activities and economic fortune.
Benzaiten-sha is the goddess of art and intelligence. She is the only female deity among the Seven Gods of Fortune. Benzaiten was adopted as a female kami in Shinto by the name Ichikishima-hime-no-mikoto. She is one of three kami believed to be daughters of the sun goddess Amaterasu, the ancestress of the imperial family.
Deity Enshrined: Princess Ichikishima. In 1612, she was enshrined at Itsukushima in Aki and worshipped as a god who protects maritime traffic.
Benzaiten in Buddhism, Ichikishima-hime-no-mikoto in Shintoism, Saraswati in Hinduism, and Seoritsu-Hime in Japanese, are considered equivalent and worshipped for her many powers across many traditions in Asia.
Shougun Jizou
Shougun Jizou was also enshrined at Atago Jinja by Tokugawa Ieyasu. The first shogan worshipped the god to become the top leader, which he achieved. However, Shougun Jizou is never opened to the public here.
Shougun Jizou is a specific type of Jizo. He is a Buddhist guardian deity, depicted in armor, symbolizing protection for soldiers and those involved in battle. This form on Jizo is unique because Jizo are often depicted as a gentle, child-like figure. Each community has its own special form of Jizo and you will encounter them everywhere in Japan. Learn more about O Jizo sama here.
Other Enshrined Deities
A sign near the office says, these gods that are enshrined at Atago Jinja in Tokyo –
- Mizuhanome no Mikoto, the god of water, a female deity who controls water. People would pray for rain at this shrine when there was a drought.
- O Oyamazumi no Mikoto, the god of mountains, war, and the sea. He is also known as Ōyama-tsumi, Watashi-no-Ōkami, and Sakatoke.
- Yamato Takeru no Mikoto, the god of military arts. Originally as Prince Ousu, he was a Japanese folk hero and semi-legendary prince of the imperial dynasty. He was a son of Emperor Keikō, the 12th Emperor of Japan.
Customs and Rituals at Shrines
Shrines have some common unsaid customs that everyone just seems to know. If this is your first time visiting a shrine, here are some basics to help you feel confident and follow the customs like a local –
How to cleanse before a prayer
At every shrine and temple, you will see a covered washing area. It is usually a cement tank with some ladles places upside down over the water, and running water, sometimes from the mouth of a dragon. What you need to do is –
- Fill some water in a ladle
- Wash your hands one at a time, over the drain
- Fill some water in your right hand and use it to cleanse the mouth. Spit the water in the drain
- Wash the right hand again
- Leave the ladle upside down as you found it.
The sign at the water station translates to “Dripping in the shadow of a rock, water from the mountains becomes a great river, flowing through the fields”, by his Majesty the present Imperial Household Agency 2017””
How to pray at a Shinto shrine
When you reach the front of the line, it’s your turn to pray. You would do the following simple steps –
- Step forward and drop your donation in the offering box
- Step back to your spot
- Take two deep bows from the waist
- Clap twice. I think loud is good
- With folded prayer hands and closed eyes, give your thanks or make your wish or just be. Focus on the moment and you might hear your mind.
- Take another bow and exit to your right
Goshuin Stamps
Temples, Shrines, and many historic locations across Japan provide stamp or seal of visit. Visitors usually collect them in a special book called goshuincho. The stamp is a beautiful hand-brushed calligraphy usually created by a priest, with information like name of the place, date, and a special prayer. It is a lovely token to remember the visit by.
Goshuin are a long-standing tradition in Japan. They are beautiful and fun way to remember all the places you’ve visited. Here’s a blog that talks about goshuin.
Charms
Most temples and shrines have an office or shop to buy charms like a paper strips, wood stripes or pretty omamori (little rectangular cushions). They are good way to formalize an ask or goal or give gratitude. If you don’t believe in spiritual powers, buying these is also good way to support the workings of these beautiful monuments.
Kigansai Prayer
You can ask for a Kigansai or personal prayer with a priest, for a stipulated donation. You basically articulate your ask clearly. The priest or staff will write the wish it in beautiful calligraphy on a piece of wood and package it ornately to take home and use like worship portal. You get to go inside the shrine, and the priest performs a prayer on your behalf. It’s a spiritual experience for one to participate-in and cherish.
January is the busiest month for Kigansai at Atajo Jinja as is in all temples and shrines in Japan, so one has to book in advance. Most local believers do an annual January Kigansai or a Kigansai for the success of a business project, movie, concert, etc.
Access to Atago Jinja
Atago Shrine is located at 1-5-3 Atago, Minato, Tokyo. It sits in central Tokyo, between Toranomon Hills and Atago Hills, near Seisho-ji Temple.
The shrine is conveniently accessible via several subway lines. While using a maps app is best, some nearby stations within walking distance include:
- Toranomon Hills Station on Hibiya line
- Toranomon Station on Ginza line
- Onarimon Station on Mita Line
The most famous way to access Atago Jinja is by climbing the 86 Steps of Success, but there are multiple paths leading to the shrine. In a way, it’s like “all roads lead to Rome”- various trails wind up the mountain, all converging at Atago Shrine.
Steps of Success
The Steps of Success provide the most iconic and direct route from the main road (Prefectural Route 301). This path takes visitors past the lion statues and torii gates. The steps are steep and can be challenging for some.
Legend has it that a samurai rode his horse up these steps to deliver a plum blossom to the shogun, completing the ascent in just one minute. However, it reportedly took 45 exhausting minutes for the horse to descend the steps.
Gentle Steps to Atago Jinja
To the right of the Steps of Success, there are smaller, gentler steps to the shrine. We used these steps when descending as they are easier on the knees, scenic and charming.
Road Access Atago Jinja
A road from the main street (Prefectural Route 301) leads directly to the shrine. Visitors can drive up and park in the Atago Jinja parking lot. However, parking may be limited or closed during festivals, so please check the shrine’s website as you plan your trip.
The road is also accessible from Toranomon Hills Residential tower near the Mori torii gate, offering a convenient shortcut for those coming from Toranomon Hills.
Elevator
For those unable to climb the steps or walk up the mountain, an elevator near the Broadcast Museum provides easier access. This option is particularly helpful for elderly visitors and those with mobility challenges.
Fun Features to Explore at Atago Jinja
While you’re at Atago Jinja, enjoy these fun features too –
Komainu (Lion-dog Guardians)
Komainu are two lion-dog statues guard the base of the Steps of Success. These beautifully crafted statues are often touched for good luck before beginning the climb. Notably, one lion has an open mouth, symbolizing “a” (the beginning of all things), while the other has a closed mouth, symbolizing “un” (the end of all things). Together, they represent the universal “A-un” sound (similar to “Om” in Buddhism).
This symbolism can be found at many Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples.
Cinnabar-Lacquered Gate
After reaching the top of the stone steps, you’ll see a bright vermillion gate – the ‘cinnabar-lacquered gate’. It is the entrance to the shrine with trees, shrubs and flowers on both sides.
The Mitsuba Aoi crest on the gate symbolizes the Tokugawa clan, that ruled Japan as shoguns, during the Edo period (1603-1868).
Maneki-ishi, a sacred rock
A few steps before reaching the main shrine, on the left, is an odd shaped rock called Maneki-Ishi. Visitors touch the rock and drop coins as an offering before proceeding to pray. It is believed to hold spiritual powers that invites good fortune when you stroke it.
Shogun-ume
Behind the Maneki-Ishi rock stands an ancient plum tree known as Shogun-Ume. According to legend, this is the very tree connected to the samurai’s legendary journey to deliver the plum blossom to Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu. If it is truly the original, it must be several hundred years old!
Plum Blossoms
Atago Jinja’s pink plum blossoms are among the first to bloom in Tokyo, signaling the arrival of spring.
In Japan, the anticipation of sakura (cherry blossoms) is a major obsession. Sakura starts blooming as early as late January in Okinawa and gradually spreads north, reaching different parts of the country between February and April. Some places have thousands of cherry or plum tress, meticulously planted and cared for centuries. Sakura season brings millions of domestic and international tourists across Japan to admire the explosion of color.
While Atago Jinja doesn’t have thousands of trees, its few plum blossom trees produce breathtaking pink blooms admired by all who visit.
Koi Pond and Waterfall
One of the most beautiful attractions at Atago Jinja is the pond and waterfall. The serene pond, home to colorful koi fish, provides a peaceful escape from Tokyo’s bustling streets.
The pond is also believed to be the source of Kobansui no Taki (Kobansui Waterfall), once a place of worship for warlords seeking victory in battle.
Photo Cutout Booths
At the top of the stone steps, visitors can find cutout boards depicting shrine legends. Placing your face in one of these cutouts might even help manifest your own success story!
Ancient Inscriptions
Walking around the shrine compound will reveal a few well displayed rocks with ancient inscriptions.
Shrine Cat
Atago Jinja has a resident cat, often found resting in its favorite spot of the day. The best way to find it? Look for visitors sitting on the ground taking photos! The cat typically lounges in a basket by the shrine shop or sunbathes by the koi pond.
Cafe
Next to the shrine shop, a small cafe offers ice cream and snacks during business hours. Many visitors enjoy their treats by the koi pond, while indoor seating is also available.
Buddhist Statues
Near the shrine, you’ll find Buddhist statues, stone lanterns, and ancient rock engravings.
Historically, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples coexisted. However, during the Meiji Restoration (1868), the government implemented a policy called shinbutsu bunri, which forced religious sites to choose between being a Shinto shrine or a Buddhist temple. The presence of Buddhist artifacts at Atago Jinja may be a remnant of that era.
The Palace and Neighboring Temples
Atago Jinja is located in a historically significant area near the Imperial Palace and several major Buddhist temples. Within a short walking distance, you can visit:
- Seisho-ji Temple – Known for Zazen meditation sessions.
- Zojoji Temple – Home to Buddha relics (a gift from India), a replica of the Shogun Shrine (gifted to Britain), and magnificent paintings of the 500 Arahants.
- Eikan-in Temple & Kosho-in Temple etc
Daigo Shojin Ryori
For a Zen experience, consider visiting Daigo, a Michelin-starred restaurant offering Shojin Ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine). However, reservations must be made well in advance.
Scenic Views
Atago Jinja is built on the highest natural point in Tokyo. While modern buildings now obscure the ocean views once visible from the shrine, the surrounding landscape—including the Mori Towers and their vertical gardens—offers a stunning mix of nature and human ingenuity.
Some Additional photos
In Conclusion
Atago Jinja is more than just a historical landmark—it’s a place where tradition, faith, and ambition intersect. Whether you’re climbing the legendary Steps of Success, offering a prayer, or enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, this shrine provides a unique and meaningful experience.
For centuries, visitors have come here seeking courage and good fortune—perhaps your own success story will begin with a single step. We look forward to hearing your story of Atago Jinja!
