All about Atago Jinja, a hidden gem in Tokyo
We discovered Atago Jinja almost by accident, back in September 2024. As we wandered aimlessly in Minato, after a particularly difficult morning, we found ourselves at the entrance of the shrine. As hikers on autopilot, we started climbing the steps. Instantly, something shifted and felt otherworldly. It felt serene, grounding, and dare I say – magical.
The place immediately touched our hearts in ways I can’t begin to describe. Maybe the gardens, flowing waterfall, pond with koi fish and waterfall, or maybe the divine energy of the place. It’s hard to point to one thing. Later, we also heard of miracles, where wishes come true, people get answers to important questions or doors opened seemingly magically where they were stuck for years. But we were intrigued and puzzled. What is this place!?
As we spoke with the rare English speaking visitors open for conversation and mostly scoured the internet, we learnt about Atago Jinja’s history, charm, and modern day significance. Despite its importance, very little is written about this shrine in English. So this essay shares everything we know about Atago Jinja to inspire and help you have an informed visit.
Contents
History and Legends of Atago Jinja
In Japan, most people practice Shintoism and Buddhism. Both traditions have coexisted here for many centuries. Buddhism originated in India and arrived in Japan via China, but has evolved and flourished in its own Japanese versions. Shintoism originated in Japan, where people worshipped deities (kami or elements of nature) and ancestors. Their legends reminds me of Hindu and Roman mythologies. Like Hindu temples, Shinto shrines also contain many shrines with multiple deities in one compound. Additionally, according to shintoism, the kings (or imperial lineage) descended from god.
Atago Jinja has two famous legends – one of its origin and one of success.
Origin Story of Atago Jinja
According to the first legend, Atago Jinja was established in the year Keicho 8 (1603) by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the 1st shogun of the Edo period. He originally ordered to build a shrine here to protect the local community from fire. Naturally, the main Shinto god worshipped in this shrine is the fire god – Homusubi no Mikoto.
Atago-Yama sits at 26 meters above sea level, the highest natural point in all of Tokyo’s 23 wards. Historically, the shrine was famous for its commanding views of Tokyo. In time, other higher points were built. In recent years shining glass buildings have come up, towering over the shrine. However, Atago Jinja continues to command its position as spiritual center of energy that draws regular people, business leaders, the rich, and the famous seeking success in life’s endeavors.
Steps of Success
Atago Jinja is known for the ’Steps of Success’ leading up to the shrine from the main road (Prefectural Route 301). These 86 stone steps are high and steep. They are not easy to walk up, and would be much harder to ride up on horse back.
Legend has it that the third shogun of the Edo period, Tokugawa Iemitsu, challenged a retainer from the Marugame domain to bring plum blossoms to Atago Shrine. A junior samurai by the name of Magaki Heikurou dared to ride his horse up the steep uneven steps, and delivered a plum gift to his lord. The Shogun was impressed, and the samurai was hailed as a great rider of Japan. Over time the samurai saw great success in his career. Since then, people have climbed the Steps of Success, believing that each step represents a milestone in their personal or professional journey.
Hence these steps have become famous as “Shusse no Ishidan” in Japan. It translates to “the stone steps to success”).
Atago Jinja’s Modern Relevance
To a first-time visitor, the shrine may seem like a local place of worship squeezed between the glitzy Mori Towers, perhaps forgotten in the tides of time. But nothing is far from the truth. It’s true that Atago Jinja has seen its share of destruction but has also been rebuilt over the centuries. The current version is from the 1958 redevelopment. The most recent renovations were done around 2023.
I wondered if the forces of business, money, and power are squeezing out the shrine. So I was surprised by what I learned as I read further.
As Mount Atago area was redeveloped for modern Tokyo with mixed living high-rises of businesses, hotels, residences, and restaurants, the area was built as vertical gardens to keep the mountain forest charm. Much emphasis was placed on preserving the Atago forest, NHK Museum of Broadcasting, historic businesses, Atago Jinja, Seisho-ji temple, Eikanin temple, Koshoin temple, and others. For example, you can still eat at Diago, the 75-year-old Michelin-star shojin ryori restaurant that was carefully moved from Seisho-ji temple into Atago Hills tower. Now run by the 4th generation, still preserving the heritage of vegan Buddhist monk kitchen.
In other places historic sites may have been decimated, but in true Japanese style, Atago Jinja and its neighbors are being preserved carefully. They also continue to thrive and stay relevant in modern times.
Celebrations at Atago Jinja
Atago Jinja hosts many festivals and events that bring followers togethers. Here are a few notable celebrations –
Year-end and New Year celebrations
Dates: 31st Dec to 7th Jan
As is customary across Japan, everyone visits their favorite temples and shrines to start off the new year and a new chapter. Atago Jinja is also busy in January and early February. The shrine and the shop have long lines. As one would expect in Japan, everything is very orderly, with four parallel lines for worshiping. No unruly crowds and each person gets their time to pray. That was so refreshing.
Setsubun
Date: Early February – day after the first day of spring in the old calendar (known as Risshun). Usually on Feb 2nd or 3rd.
Setsubun, marks the transition between the seasons and is believed to ward off evil spirits if one throws roasted soybeans (fukumame 福豆 ‘fortune beans’). Temples and shrines sell pouches of roasted soybeans leading up to the festival. On Satsuban people toss roasted soybeans out the front door, or at a masked family member, or at each other in shrines. They also eat these crunchy beans for good fortune in the new year.
As another quirky tradition, kids eat a giant sushi roll that day. More about Setsubun on wikipedia.
Sennichi Mairi and Hozuki Festival
Date: 2 days in end of June
Sennichi mairi (千日詣り) literally means 1000-day visit, because visiting the shrine on one of these two days is supposed to bring 1000 days worth of good luck.
Hozuki (ほおづき) means Chinese lantern plant which was used for medicinal purposes in the past. At the festival, visitors can purchase a Shinto purified lantern plant to take home. Also, a wreath of kaya grass is placed at the cinnabar-lacquered Gate. Walking through the wreath is believed to ward off evil.
Check more details at Japan Kuru.
Atagoyama
Date: September End
Atagoyama is Atago Jinja’s most important festival. The entire shrine grounds, particularly the steps, are decorated with hundreds of (electric) paper lanterns for weeks.
The main event is a procession where thousands of people participate. Volunteers dressed in festive costumes carry a O Mikoshi (a large portable shrine) up the “Shusse no Ishidan”. Here is an instagram reel from 2024 festival at Atago Jinja.
Musical performances are showcased on the stage over the pond. Food tents and food trucks provide local, traditional, and delicious foods. Even Daigo, the Michelin star restaurant hosted a food stall for visitors. The festival is a great way to carry forward traditions. Since the renovations, 2024 saw the largest event and it focused on local traditions.
The shrine hosts other annual events that brings together the entire community, visitors, and devotees from afar. People can host private events like weddings at the shrine.
Decorations for Atagoyama start weeks in advance
Gods Enshrined at Atago Jinja
The main at deity Atago Jinja is the fire god but the compound has a few other enshrined deities. Located on a spacious park-like hilltop, the shrine grounds are open 24×7. The doors of the buildings are closed but visitors can climb the steps, cleanse, pray and donate any time. Benzaiten-sha’s shrine, waterfall shrine, the plum tree, and the rock are also located in the open areas.
Atago Sama
God of Fire. The god of household safety and business success.
Deity enshrined: Homusubi no Mikoto (the god of fire), also known as Kagutsuchi or Hi-no-Kagutsuchi.
Legend has it that, due to Homusubi no Mikoto‘s immense fire power, his mother, the female creator god, Izanami, was fatally burned while giving birth to him. Enraged, his father, Izanagi, cut him into pieces. But lo and behold, his blood and body parts created several new gods.
In the Edo era, the fire god was enshrined at this highest point in Tokyo for respect, but I think it’s also for the then sweeping views. From here one could get an early warning of smoke, contain the fire, and protect the city from fires.
If you’re wondering – how business success related to the fire god, these old Japanese sayings associated with the god may give some clues –
- “hi-wo-ireru” translates to ‘turn on the switch’ or ‘reboot’ in the digital age.
- “hi-no-kuruma” refers to the wheels of carriage catching fire. Translating to modern times, it implies that business would be wildly successful.
Likewise, how is household safety related to fire god? The heart of a home is the kitchen, where the fire is kept, so a country where homes are made of wood and paper, fire god is an important god and protector. Therefore, if one prays to the fire god, the entire household is blessed with safety.
Atago sama’s most famous shrine is in Kyoto, but from personal experience, I find Atago Jinja in Tokyo to be supremely powerful. I hope to visit him in Kyoto next time.
Three small shrines are located in the back between the main shrine and the office. They are behind the metal gates so they are only accessible while the shrine shop/office is open.
Here are the additional shrines at Atago Jinja in Tokyo –
Taroubou Jinja
Taroubou Jinja will protect your future. This Tengu god will lead your path.
Deity enshrined: Sarutahiko no Mikoto – god of guidance and travel. Also revered as Tarobo of Atago mountain.
According to Shito mythology, Amaterasu is the sun goddess and a central deity in Shinto. She is believed to be the ancestor of the Japanese imperial family. Her heavenly grandson Ninigi no Mikoto (aka Tenson Kōrin) descended to earth, marking the beginning of the imperial lineage of Japan.
At that time Sarutahiko no Mikoto was a powerful Tengu (Tengu is a mischievous, supernatural creature often depicted with a long nose and considered a mountain deity). It is believed that Sarutahiko no Mikoto guided Ninigi no Mikoto when he came to earth. As the god’s guide, Sarutahiko no Mikoto earned his position as guardian deity of future development, travel, etc.
Fukuju Inari Jinja
God of rice (foods) cultivation and business success.
Inari is the Shinto god of rice and prosperity. Fukuju means “good fortune and longevity” or “happiness and long life”. Fukuju Inari is interpreted as “the lucky Inari”. The worshippers of Inari are blessed with wealth and success.
Deity enshrined: Uga Mitama or Uka no Mitama – god associated with food and agriculture, often identified with Inari. “uka” meaning “food” in Japanese. Uka no mitama is considered the “august spirit of food”.
This god is deeply revered by the business people.
Ebisu and Daikoku-sha
Gods of the kitchen. Worshiped for good fortune, agriculture, and business.
Ebisu and Daikoku-sha are two of the Seven Gods of Fortune in Shintoism
- Ebisu is the god of prosperity and good fortune, especially in business. He is dressed as a fisherman and is the patron of restaurants, fisheries, and corporations.
- Daikokuten is the god of wealth and prosperity. He is depicted sitting on top of bales of rice and carrying a golden mallet.
Deity enshrined: Okuninushi no Mikoto and Toshiro Shumei. They are worshipped as gods who bestows blessings, goodness, wisdom.
In Japanese mythology, Okuninushi no Mikoto is a central deity considered the “Great Land Master” or “Lord of the Central Land of Reed Plains,” often associated with the earth, creation, medicine, agriculture, relationships, and is known for his role in shaping the Japanese landscape. He is considered one of the most important gods in Shinto belief, often depicted as a compassionate and wise figure with a significant story involving the “White Hare of Inaba.”.
Benzaiten-sha
God of success in extracurricular activities and economic fortune.
Benzaiten-sha is the goddess of art and intelligence. She is the only female deity among the Seven Gods of Fortune. Benzaiten was adopted as a female kami in Shinto by the name Ichikishima hime no Mikoto. She is one of three kami believed to be daughters of the sun goddess Amaterasu, the ancestress of the imperial family.
Deity Enshrined: Princess Ichikishima. In 1612, she was enshrined at Itsukushima in Aki and worshipped as a god who protects maritime traffic.
Benzaiten in Buddhism, Ichikishima-hime-no-mikoto in Shintoism, Saraswati in Hinduism, and Seoritsu-Hime in Japanese, are considered equivalent and worshipped for her many powers across many traditions in Asia.
Shougun Jizou
Shougun Jizou was also enshrined at Atago Jinja by Tokugawa Ieyasu. The first shogan worshipped the god to become the top leader of Japan, and he achieved the goal. However, Shougun Jizou’s shrine is never opened to the public here.
Shougun Jizou is a specific type of Jizo. He is a Buddhist guardian deity, depicted in armor, symbolizing protection for soldiers and those involved in battle. This form on Jizo is unique because Jizo are often depicted as a gentle, child-like figure. Each community has its own special forms of Jizo and one will encounter them everywhere in Japan. Learn more about O Jizo sama here.
Other Enshrined Deities
A sign near the office says, these gods are enshrined at Atago Jinja in Tokyo –
- Mizuhanome no Mikoto, the god of water, a female deity who controls water. People would pray for rain at this shrine in times of drought.
- O Oyamazumi no Mikoto, the god of mountains, war, and the sea. He is also known as Ōyama-tsumi, Watashi-no-Ōkami, and Sakatoke.
- Yamato Takeru no Mikoto, the god of military arts. Originally known as Prince Ousu, he was a Japanese folk hero and prince of the imperial dynasty. He was a son of Emperor Keikō, the 12th Emperor of Japan.
Customs and Rituals at Shrines
Shrines have some common unsaid customs that everyone just seems to know. If this is your first time visiting a shrine, here are some basics to help you feel confident and follow the customs like a local –
How to cleanse before a prayer
At every shrine and temple, there is a covered washing area. It is usually a cement tank with some ladles places upside down over the water, and running water, sometimes from the mouth of a dragon. It is customary to do the following –
- Fill some water in a ladle
- Was both hands one at a time, over the drain
- Fill some water in a hand and use it to cleanse the mouth. Spit the water in the drain
- Wash the hands again
- Leave the ladle upside down on the rack.
Video demonstrating how to cleanse at a shrine or temple in Japan.
Water cleanse hut at Atago Jinja in Tokyo
The sign at the water station translates to –
“Dripping in the shadow of a rock, water from the mountains becomes a great river, flowing through the fields”, by his Majesty the Imperial Household Agency 2017.
I think he is trying to inspire people to continue doing their good deeds because one day all the deeds will amount to a lot.
How to pray at a Shinto shrine
Upon reaching the front of the line, one can pray to the god. One would do the following simple steps –
- Step forward and drop a donation in the offering box
- Step back to the prayer spot
- Take two deep bows from the waist
- Clap twice (I think loud is good)
- With folded prayer hands and closed eyes, give thanks or make a wish or just be. Focus on the moment and one might hear an important thought
- Take another bow and exit to the right
Video demonstrating how to pray at a shrine in Japan.
Goshuin Stamps
Temples, Shrines, and many historic locations across Japan provide stamp or seal of visit. Visitors usually collect them in a special book called goshuincho. Along with the monument’s stamp, a priest will usually create a beautiful hand-brushed calligraphy, with information like name of the place, date, and a special prayer. It is a lovely token to remember the visit by.
Goshuin are a long-standing tradition in Japan. They are beautiful and fun way to remember all the places you’ve visited. Here’s a blog that talks about goshuin.
Charms
Most temples and shrines have an office or shop to buy charms like a paper strips, wood stripes or pretty omamori (little rectangular cushions). They are good ways to formalize an ask or goal or give gratitude. If you don’t believe in spiritual powers, buying these is also good way to support the workings of these beautiful monuments.
Kigansai Prayer
One can ask for a Kigansai or personal prayer with a priest, for a stipulated donation. You basically articulate your ask clearly. The priest or staff will write the wish it in beautiful calligraphy on a piece of wood and package it ornately to take home and use like worship portal. You get to go inside the shrine, and the priest performs a prayer on your behalf. It’s a spiritual experience for one to participate-in and cherish.
January is the busiest month for Kigansai at Atajo Jinja as is in all temples and shrines in Japan, so one has to book in advance. Most local believers do an annual January Kigansai or a Kigansai for the success of a business project, movie, concert, etc.
Access to Atago Jinja
Atago Shrine is located at 1-5-3 Atago, Minato, Tokyo. It sits in central Tokyo, between Toranomon Hills and Atago Hills, near Seisho-ji Temple.
The shrine is conveniently accessible via several subway lines. While using a maps app is best, some nearby stations within walking distance include:
- Kamiyacho or Toranomon Hills Station on Hibiya line
- Toranomon Station on Ginza line
- Onarimon Station on Mita Line
There are multiple paths leading to the shrine. In a way, it’s like “all roads lead to Rome”- various trails wind up the mountain, all converging at Atago Shrine.
Steps of Success
The Steps of Success provide the most iconic and direct route from the main road (Prefectural Route 301). This path takes visitors past the lion-dog statues and torii gates. The steps are steep and can be challenging for some.
Legend has it that a samurai rode his horse up these steps to deliver a plum blossom to the shogun, completing the ascent in just one minute. However, it reportedly took 45 exhausting minutes for the horse to descend the steps.
Gentle Steps to Atago Jinja
To the right of the Steps of Success, there are smaller, gentler steps to the shrine. We used these steps when descending as they are easier on the knees, scenic and charming.
Road Access Atago Jinja
A road from the main street (Prefectural Route 301) leads directly to the shrine. Visitors can drive up and park in the Atago Jinja parking lot. However, parking may be limited or closed during festivals, so its best to check the shrine’s website when planning a road trip.
The road is also accessible from Toranomon Hills Residential tower near the Mori torii gate, offering a convenient shortcut for those coming from Toranomon Hills.
Elevator
For those unable to climb the steps or walk up the mountain, an elevator near the Broadcast Museum provides easier access. This option is particularly helpful for elderly visitors and those with mobility challenges.
Fun Features to Explore in Atago Jinja
Beyond the shrine, there is a lot more to do in and around Atago Jinja –
Komainu (Lion-dog Guardians)
Komainu are two lion-dog statues, standing guard the base of the Steps of Success. These beautifully crafted statues are often touched for good luck before beginning the climb. Notably, one lion has an open mouth, symbolizing “a” (the beginning of all things), while the other has a closed mouth, symbolizing “un” (the end of all things). Together, they represent the universal “A-un” sound (similar to “Om” in Buddhism).
This symbolism can be found at many Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples.
Cinnabar-Lacquered Gate with Tokugawa crest
After reaching the top of the stone steps, you’ll see a bright vermillion gate – the ‘cinnabar-lacquered gate’. It is the entrance to the shrine, with trees, shrubs and flowers on both sides.
The Mitsuba Aoi crest on the gate symbolizes the Tokugawa clan that ruled Japan as shoguns, during the Edo period (1603-1868).
Maneki-ishi, a sacred rock
A few steps before reaching the main shrine, on the left, is an odd shaped rock called Maneki-Ishi. Visitors touch the rock and drop coins as an offering before proceeding to pray. It is believed to hold spiritual powers that invites good fortune when stroked.
Shogun-ume
Behind the Maneki-Ishi rock stands the legendary plum tree known as Shogun-Ume. According to legend, this is the very tree connected to the samurai’s brave journey to deliver the plum blossom to Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu. If it is truly the original, it must be several hundred years old! It still continues to live and bloom each spring.
Plum Blossoms
Atago Jinja’s pink plum blossoms are among the first to bloom in Tokyo, signaling the arrival of spring.
In Japan, the anticipation of sakura (cherry blossoms) is a major obsession. Sakura starts blooming as early as late January in Okinawa and gradually spreads north, reaching different parts of the country between February and April. Some places have thousands of cherry or plum tress, meticulously planted and cared for centuries. Sakura season brings millions of domestic and international tourists across Japan to admire the explosion of color.
While Atago Jinja doesn’t have thousands of trees, its few plum trees produce breathtaking pink blooms admired by all.
Koi Pond and Waterfall
One of my favorite attractions at Atago Jinja is the pond and waterfall. The serene pond, home to colorful koi fish, provides a peaceful escape from Tokyo’s bustling streets.
The pond is also believed to be the source of Kobansui no Taki (Kobansui Waterfall), once a place of worship for warlords seeking victory in battle.
Photo Cutout Booths
At the top of the stone steps are cutout boards depicting shrine legends. People may place their faces in cutouts to help manifest personal goals!
Top: Atago Shrine
Left: Xi’an’s prosperity (possibly describing a prosperous city)
Right: Kaishu Katsu (winning)
Bottom: The site of the bloodless surrender talks at Edo Castle
Ancient Inscriptions
Walking around the shrine compound will reveal few well displayed rocks with ancient inscriptions.
Shrine Cat
Atago Jinja has a resident cat, often found resting in its favorite spot of the day. The best way to find it? Look for visitors sitting on the ground taking photos! The cat typically lounges in a basket by the shrine shop or sunbathes by the koi pond.
Cafe
Next to the shrine shop, a small cafe offers ice cream and snacks during business hours. Many visitors enjoy their treats by the koi pond, while indoor seating is also available.
Buddhist Statues
To the right of the shrine area are Buddhist statues, stone lanterns, and engraved rocks.
Historically, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples coexisted. However, during the Meiji Restoration (1868), the government implemented a policy called shinbutsu bunri, which forced religious sites to choose between being a Shinto shrine or a Buddhist temple. The presence of Buddhist artifacts at Atago Jinja may be a remnant of that era.
The Palace and Neighboring Temples
Atago Jinja is located in a historically significant area near the Imperial Palace and several major Buddhist temples such as –
- Seisho-ji Temple – Known for Zazen meditation sessions.
- Zojoji Temple – Home to Buddha relics (a gift from India), a replica of the Shogun Shrine (gifted to Britain), and magnificent paintings of the 500 Arhats.
- Eikan-in Temple & Kosho-in Temple etc
Daigo Shojin Ryori
For a Zen experience, consider visiting Daigo, a Michelin-starred restaurant offering Shojin Ryori (Buddhist vegan cuisine). However, reservations must be made well in advance.
Scenic Views
Atago Jinja is built on the highest natural point in Tokyo. While modern buildings now obscure the ocean views, the surrounding landscape—including the Mori Towers and their vertical gardens—offers a stunning mix of nature and human ingenuity.
Some Additional photos
A Day Trip in Minato Area of Tokyo
If you’re inclined to visit Atago shrine in Tokyo or the spiritual legends of Edo period blending modernization – Minato area has a lot offer. You can make a day trip or half a day trip in Minato area in central Tokyo. Here are a few places to include in a Minato area walk, from south to north (Tokyo Tower to Tokyo Station) –
- Tokyo Tower and nearby gardens
- Azabudai Hills, a swanky new neighborhood. Get breakfast at Tokyo Juice, Alchemy or Arabica. Shop at the world’s top brands or beautiful boutiques in the Mori tower
- Zojoji Buddhist temple – sit in stillness in main temple hall. Walk the large temple grounds with hundreds of Jizou reminding of passed children. Surely visit the museum with 500 rare Arhats paintings and all-important Buddha relics from India
- Seisho-ji temple, famous for Zazen meditation, but only for trained Japanese
- Atago Jinja shrine as described here
- Toranomon Hills, a beautiful mini township with Toranomon station, Business tower, Medical clinic, Residential towers, corporations, housing, Andaz, Hilton, a park, cafes, and utilities like mail, hair salon etc. This modern living concept in a beautiful setting is worth observing.
- Dine at restaurants with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options
- Dine like Japanese office workers in Toranomon Business Tower basement
- T-Market is a upscale dining in food-court style
- Erick South fast food in Toranomon Hills Business Tower offers South Indian thali
- Salad works and several cafes in Toranomon Hills
- Nandhini Indian a 5-minute walk from Toranomon Hills or Atago Jinja
- Ahilya Indian in Azabudai Hills
- Daigo shojin-ryori cuisine (by reservation only)
If you have time left over, you could also add
- Hibiya park
- Imperial Palace
- Tokyo station area
Map of favorite places to visit in Minato area in central Tokyo
In Conclusion
Atago Jinja is more than just a historical landmark—it’s a place where tradition, faith, and ambition intersect. Whether one is climbing the legendary Steps of Success, offering a prayer, or enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, this shrine provides a unique and meaningful experience.
For centuries, visitors have come here seeking courage and good fortune—perhaps your own success story will begin with a single step and bring you glory.
