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Nathmal Haveli in Jaisalmer

Fascinating Stories of Jaisalmer and its Magnificent Havelis

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Jaisalmer Havelis are a symbol of prosperity and astounding arts of Rajasthan. The Havelis tell the interesting stories of Jains merchants of Rajasthan and their fascinating lives. Jaisalmer Havelis looks like delicate jewelry carved out of gold.

For centuries, the silk route passed through the region around Jaisalmer. The Jains traders of the region acquired extreme wealth with their business acumen. They traded gold, silver, opium, jewels, jewelry, etc.

Jaisalmer’s story reminds me of Venice (from our visit earlier this year) – both Jaisalmer and Venice were built on the wealth of savvy traders enriched on the silk route. Both cities were built in impossible places – Venice in treacherous unnavigable waters and Jaisalmer in the drought-prone deep desert with virtually no water. Both cities were protected by the harsh conditions that only the natives had overcome. Despite nature’s challenges, merchants of Venice and Jaisalmer built monumental places of worship and demonstrated incredible feats of engineering as they built their cities.

The Jains of Jaisalmer financed over 50 kingdoms and had over 400 stores all over Asia – Iran, Afghanistan, China, Indian, present-day Pakistan, and others.

When Pakistan was formed, the borders closed and trade came to standstill. So, the Jains deserted Jaisalmer. Of the thousands of Jain families, only a handful remain but their legacy is still intact everywhere in Jaisalmer and surrounding towns and cities.

In addition to the magical Jain temples of Jaisalmer, they left behind their magnificent Havelis. While most are still in use by the family or lie in ruins, a couple of them are opened as museums, and a must-see to get a glimpse of life back then.

The Patwa Havelis

The most popular Haveli are those of the Patwa family. What looks like one long Haveli are five connected Haveli for the five sons of Ghuman Chand Bafna. The first one was sold to the local Kothari family who converted it to a private museum. The Patwa descendants still live in the next two Haveli that seemingly lie in disarray. One of them opened to visitors this season and is planned to be renovated for the 2018 season. The last two are owned and managed by the Archeological Society of India, but not really managed.

Kothari-Patwa, the famous Jaisalmer Haveli

The Kothari-Patwa Haveli is said to have been bought by Mr Kothari of Jaisalmer for a mere Rs 60K. Some say the Patwas sold it and others say that the Patwas left it to caretakers who then sold it to the Kotharis.

From the street we see a row of five houses, one for each of the five brothers.
From the street we see a row of five houses, one for each of the five brothers.
Looking up from the street we’re treated with views of ornate balconies and windows.
Looking up from the street we are treated with views of ornate balconies and windows.
The grand entrance for visitors is decorated with glass, mirrors and possibly jewels. This is one of the galleries of the room.
Family members could see the streets from the many jhrokhas, each made like outstanding jewelry carved out of stone. Particularly women could watch all events without being seen.
Family members, particularly women, were able see the streets from the many jhrokhas, each made in the likeness of outstanding jewelry carved out of stone.
Like traditional Rajasthani and Roman homes, these homes have a central open space, surrounded by rooms. The central area opens to the sky (and rain).
Like traditional Rajasthani (and Roman homes), these homes have a central open space, surrounded by rooms. The central area opens to the sky (and rain).

The outfits for wealthy merchants were very elaborate and exquisite.

Traditional outfits worn during festivals have not changed much for women.
Traditional outfits worn during festivals have not changed much for women.

There were probably no car back in the 1800s, so the wealthy travelled on palkis. It would certainly keep the delicate and elaborate dresses looking sharp.

They travelled in style, in palkis carried by servants.
They travelled in style, in palkis carried by servants.

Water was always in short supply. It rained about four times a year so preservation and conservation was paramount.

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If they were anything like my grandmothers, they had cooks to prepare all the meals. Similarly, they may have had large families and many different and fussy palettes to please.

The kitchen had many gadgets, some common in Rajasthani kitchens and others only found in wealthy merchant homes. To the right is a grain grinder for making flour. It was very common in Rajasthan to make fresh flour each day. My grandfather used it as a great workout, every morning.
The kitchen had many gadgets, some common in Rajasthani kitchens and others only found in wealthy merchant homes. To the right is a grain grinder for making flour. It was very common in Rajasthan to make fresh flour each day. My grandfather used it as a great workout, every morning.

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The men and women had separate dining rooms. The men’s dining area was large, ornate and open.

The intimate dining room was for women. As we do on festive occasions now, they used to sit around a chowky (small wooden table) and eat from one large plate.
The women’s dining room was intimate, private and simple. As we do on festive occasions these days, they used to sit around a chowky (small wooden table) and eat from one large plate.

The Haveli has multiple rooms for entertaining guests and family.

The formal sitting room has many sources of entertainment, such as a record player, sitar, hukka etc.
The formal sitting room has many sources of entertainment, such as a record player, sitar, hukka etc.

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The rooftop of this haveli is in the more classic Rajasthani style, a flat roof with the open center looking into the house. It has full view of the fort and the entire city. Rooftops are also used as bedrooms under the stars in hot summer months, with cool desert nights.

The root top was commonly used for large gatherings or parties. To protect from weather or for decorative purposes, the roof would be covered by huge fabric sheets, forming a tent. Each corner still has the metal hinge for tying the tent.
The desert rooftop are generally for large gatherings or parties. To protect from weather or for decorative purposes, the roof is covered by huge fabric sheets, forming a tent. Each corner still has the metal hinge for tying the tent.
A metal hook on one of the entrance structures to hold the roof coverings. The hinges are in several places to provide different options for the tent setup.
A metal hook on one of the entrance structures to hold the roof coverings. The hinges are in several places to provide different options for the tent setup.
The rooftop provides a nice view of the Haveli, the neighborhood, the busy street below and the entire city.
The rooftop provides a nice view of the Haveli, the neighborhood, the busy street below and the entire city.
Looking up from the chowk in the ground floor.
Looking up from the chowk on the ground floor.

A Jaisalmer Haveli picture prop

The next portion of the Haveli is used by photo vendors to rent traditional Rajasthani outfits for tourist pictures.

Perfect place to rent a colorful Rajasthani outfit and take a memory home.

Patwa home

The Haveli #2 and #3 are home to descendants of the Patwas tycoons that built the business empire. Haveli #2 was home to the eldest brother and hence the most important. Today, these Havelis are in mostly the same state with little maintenance or upgrade. The ground floor is rented to souvenir shops for about Rs 100,000 a month, while the neighbor brings in millions of Rs from ticket sales. After all these decades, someone had the bright idea to start showing haveli #2. So, they opened the doors for the 2017 season, with some basic cleanup. Hopefully, the ticket sales will generate sufficient revenue to restore and make the Haveli more presentable. As is, it is more authentic and true to its original style.

One of the natives was saying that the Kothari-Patwa Haveli is made much grander than the original home, mostly to wow the tourists. In reality, the Jains are more simplistic. As a Jain myself, I know many powerful Jains follow aparigraha principle and live a very simple private life, so there is likely some truth to it. But, many live in extravagant homes too.

Either way, I’m curious to know what the Patwas do in terms of the restoration and what story they choose to tell of their ancestors.

The formal living room shows beautiful peacock design to welcome visitors.
The formal living room has a beautiful peacock to receive visitors.

The Patwa family temple was probably the most important room for the whole family. It is no less decorative than the gorgeous Jain temples of Jaisalmer.

The eldest of the five brothers lived this haveli. Naturally this haveli has the family temple. The entire family would come here for prayer every day. It must have been the most ornate room and it’s still amazing! But, the statues are missing. When the Jains started leaving Jaisalmer for greener pastures in mid 1900s, they donated the statues to the temples in the Fort. Thousands of such statues now reside in the temples within the fort.
The eldest of the five brothers lived in this haveli. Naturally, this haveli has the family temple. The family would come here for prayer every day. It must have been the most ornate room and it’s still amazing! But, the statues are missing. When the Jains started leaving Jaisalmer in the mid 1900s, they donated the statues to the temples in the Fort. Thousands of such statues now reside in the temples within the fort.
The haveli has many beautiful paintings amongst the general deterioration.
The haveli has many beautiful paintings amongst the general deterioration. Hopefully they will be restored soon.

The eldest brother’s Haveli rooftop is impressive and different from others. It is also the highest of all the five Havelis and likely all of Jaisalmer. While Rajasthani home rooftops are commonly used for sleeping in summer, this one has the most ornate sitting, storage or serving areas. My guess is that it was used for family gatherings and parties.

The rooftop has more built up structures than other Havelis. Possibly the more important parties happened in this haveli.
The rooftop has more built-up structures than other Havelis. Possibly more important parties or ceremonies happened in this Haveli.

Another traditional style adorns this room with a stair case. Like many stairs, these have no railings or support beams.
Traditional paintings adorns this room with a staircase. Like many stairs, these have no railings or support beams.
Even the underside of the staircase is beautiful.
The underside of the staircase is painted too, not leaving any surface bare.
This rooftop also has the most storage space, presumably for party supplies, food or beddings. As is common in the desert, families sleep on rooftops in summer on a daily basis.
This rooftop also has the most storage space, presumably for party supplies, food or beddings. As is common in the desert, families sleep on rooftops in summer on a daily basis.

If you enjoyed reading about the exquisite Patwa haveli, you’ll love the genius architecture and functional design of Casa Míla of Barcelona by mastermind architect Antoni Gaudi.

Nathmalji’s Haveli

Nathmalji’s haveli is being used by the family as their residence. The first floor is converted to shops.

Nathmalji haveli rivals the Patwa haveli. Some say they were contemporary business men, each trying to out-do the other in their building projects.
Nathmalji haveli rivals the Patwa haveli. Some say they were contemporary business men, each trying to out-do the other in their building projects.
Nathmal Haveli in Jaisalmer
A cute kid looking out from a stunning jharokha in Nathmal’s Haveli
Nathmalji's Haveli's inside chowk.
Nathmalji’s Haveli’s inside chowk.

One of the windows (jharokah) in Nathmalji's Haveli.One of the windows (jharokah) in Nathmalji’s Haveli. It’s hard to believe such intricate designs were cut into the rock that has withstood the weather for over a hundred years.

Around town

Walking around town, we saw that most houses have a similar picture of Ganesh and kalash, almost like a wedding invitation card. It turns out, Jaisalmer still has the tradition of painting wedding invitation card by their doors. People simply know if the card is an invitation for them and they show up at the right place and right time for the wedding ceremonies.
One of the many pan shops in Jaisalmer.
One of the many pan shops in Jaisalmer.
Purses and hand made many souvenirs in the hundreds of stall all over Jaisalmer town and fort.
Purses and many hand made souvenirs are sold in hundreds of stalls all over Jaisalmer town and fort.
Dolls sold around Patwa Haveli and around town
Dolls are sold around Patwa Haveli and around town
Camel leather goods of all kinds are made around Jaisalmer.

As our hotel staff said, the most important souvenirs to take from Jaisalmer are stories and pictures. Some stories are historical facts and others just fascinating stories.

As a Rajasthani Oswal Jain, this was an insightful trip for me on a personal level as it relates so closely to the lifestyle of my grandparents and great grandparents. I hope to return to explore the broader region, history, and the stories.

You will also love

This Page – Havelis of Jaisalmer

Jains and Jain Temples of Jaisalmer

Villages in Thar Desert

On the Dunes of Jaisalmer

Rajasthan Travel Tips


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4 Comments

  1. Kailash
    January 7, 2018 @ 10:12 am

    What a beautiful post.. love how you’ve captured the intricate details of Jaisalmer’s history and drawn parallels to Venice – both along the Silk route. The pictures remind me of my visit to Jaisalmer esp. Patwa haveli.

    • Jyoti
      January 7, 2018 @ 1:54 pm

      Hi Kailash, thanks so much for taking the time to read and share your observation. It’s awesome that it reminds you of your visit too.

  2. Dagney
    November 14, 2018 @ 10:00 am

    It’s quite funny, but my favourite Indian restaurant in Abu Dhabi (the best Indian food I’ve ever had outside of India!) is called Haveli and I never knew the meaning behind the name (or probably thought about it, if I’m being honest). So weirdly, reading this made me quite hungry! However, this place is really extraordinary. I loved Rajasthan in general when we visited – so many beautiful buildings with fascinating histories – but this is one we didn’t visit. I really don’t know much about the Jains, so I enjoyed learning about the history. The carvings on these buildings are so intricate, why can’t buildings made today be this beautiful?! Although I don’t think I’d enjoy wearing those outfits, they look heavy!

    • Jyoti
      November 14, 2018 @ 8:05 pm

      Hi Dagney, it’s so interesting that reading about havelis (Rajasthani homes) reminds you of Indian food in Abu Dhabi! The brain does some fascinating associations 🙂
      I’m glad you enjoyed reading about Jains and history of the Jaisalmer.
      Architecture and the design focus are so different now.

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