Villages in the Thar Desert

Asia, Blog Post, Destinations, India, People, Places, Rajasthan

The great Thar desert is a world of its own. It looks empty for miles on end but is filled with wonderful surprises.

On our first day in Jaisalmer, we drove to Longewala, Tanot Mata mandir and explored the countryside. The drives provide unique desert landscapes and tiny villages. The villages were pristine and it seemed like we were in a time capsule from generations ago. We got to talk with kids and moms in our native Marwari language. Some even spoke Hindi and a bit of English.

Gumnewala, a village of beautiful mud houses

Driving from Jaisalmer to Longewala, we spotted a cluster of beautiful brown houses adorned with white and green designs. The village is called Gumnewala (that which gets lost).

The house is owned by young Jaipal Singh’s family. They cover the mud house with cow dung and paint designs with white and green colors from Ramgadh, the closest big town.

Jaipal Singh introduces his picture-shy (and very witty) mom. He is in middle school around here while his brother is in a better school in Ramgadh. To our surprise he understands English and Hindi and can also speak the languages. Above all I was impressed by his eloquence and confidence.

All the kids we hung out with were friendly and just pure joy to be with. The girl in the black shalwar kameez stopped to chat with me, as she was heading out to fetch water for her home. As is customary in most rural India, she is no longer in school and probably getting ready for marriage.

Water in Gumnewala

Water is difficult to find, hence the most precious resource in rural Rajasthan, particularly in remote desert areas.

The village kids show us the underground water tank. Presumably covered to prevent evaporation and contamination.

Traditionally the drinking water wells in Rajasthan are filled by sweet rainwater(palar pani) as many people like it better than the mineral-rich and hard groundwater. The kids said that the tank fills the well, but I’m not sure if it’s really the case.

The drinking water well is probably the most important site as the children proudly share with us.

Closer to the highway was a large plastic tank. I should have asked how they fill it but my guess is that someone brings water in a tanker and fills it for village consumption.

Animals in Gumnewala

Like other villages in rural Rajasthan, Gumnewala is rich with cows and goats.

One of the wonderful children of Gumnewala shows off the newest cute baby kid.

A shelter for the animals to protect from the burning hot days and freezing cold nights of the desert.

Across the highway we saw dozens of cows and many more goats, the primary source of income for the desert folk.

Our driver told us they also own many camels. While the women and children mind the cows and goats, the men take the camels to the desert safari resorts for tourists to ride on.

A hamlet of mud houses

After Longewala, we came across a little hamlet of round mud houses. Here we met with Raiees Khan, an eleventh grader in a high school in the nearby town. His home is a group of mud huts arranged in a circle around a central courtyard. Each hut serves as a room like it would in our house.

Raiees’s sister fetches us one of her mom’s creations.

Raiees showing us a floor rug his mom is working on, for his sister’s dowry. It’s a quilt made with pieces of fabric, sewn entire by hand using only scissors, needle and thread. — Raiees showing us a floor rug his mom is working on, for his sister’s dowry. It’s a quilt made with pieces of fabric, sewn entire by hand using only scissors, needle, and thread.

The house is immaculate. I was taken by how clean it is. Every room was neatly organized, everything tucked away in its place on a shelf, the floors were clear. Raiees’s sister and mom were sitting in an open area, his sister was working on a top, making gorgeous beadwork. His mom was working on another patchwork quilt.

Raiees’s mom transforming a pile of colorful fabric into a beautiful quilt.

They must be done with lunch but Raiees’s mom offers us tea in her cozy kitchen in a rural Rajasthan setting.

A wood fire stove, tava and firewood in an otherwise empty kitchen. — A wood fire stove, tava, and firewood in an otherwise empty kitchen.

A modest living room with protection from the sun and breeze. But on this pleasant summer afternoon the mom & daughter prefer to sit in the sun. — A modest living room with protection from the sun and breeze. But on this pleasant summer afternoon, the mom & daughter prefer to sit in the sun.

This village also has many cows. I don’t see goats, maybe they are out for lunch.

A cute newborn stares at us and then stands up to greet us.

A little ways out is the home for the curious newborn calves. — A little way out is the home for the curious newborn calves.

Oh the joys of childhood — Oh, the joys of childhood! A little was running around and intrigued by our presence in her village.

The village has nicer water tanks and wells than the previous village.

I attempt to draw water from the nearby well. It’s quite a workout.

Our driver tells us that the Muslims of this region are rich although they live a very simple village life. He says these villagers take their goats (pretend to graze) all the way to the Pakistan border. At the border, they meet Pakistanis and smuggle drugs into India for a nice profit. I’m not sure I trust my driver on this topic because it’s obvious that he is biased against Muslims. But, I wonder how they get the funds to send the sons to school in the town and pay for the truck and nice wells when Raiees says that his dad does no job. Maybe he sells goats in a town like the rest of them.

We really like the friendly family as we spend the time with Raiees, his mom and two sisters.